God’s Own Country – Chapter II

Kerala continued …

Kerala Day 6 – Beach to Mountains

      It was an early morning hustle with a lot of luggage to be packed and loaded. A 150 km ride to Periyar National Park, Thekkady – Kerala, was another place we had been looking forward to more than other places.

      Breathing in the serenity of the beach-stay, memorizing the fresh sunrise to be etched in our hearts forever and listening to the soothing sound of the waves, we kicked off to the next adventure in Kerala.

      150 kms may sound less, but when you spiral through the narrow roads of the villages, it paces you down a notch. Nevertheless, it has its own perks and there is nothing that you can complain about. Take in as much of the mornings of Kerala, the birds flocking off, the spectacular view of the flora and just another refreshing day in Gods own country

      We took a quick pit stop as it was 4.5 hours to reach the Periyar tiger reserve check post.

Important note:– Private vehicles are not allowed to the lake. One needs to park them at this check post, buy an entry ticket of the reserve and a bus (to and fro). These buses run every 15-30 mins.

      With a lot of apprehensions, I secured the luggage on the bike, and took all essentials along in the tank bag. Fingers crossed, I left Joycy and luggage in the common parking area.

      The bus takes about 15 mins to reach the boat main area from where you need to board the boats.

Important note:– Either book your ride tickets online or arrive very early to be the first in the queue to get the tickets. Not doing either of them, you will only waste time and you may have to miss something that you have planned for a later day

      Unfortunately, we did not do any of the above, but with sheer luck, a friendly guard near the counter gave us the forms. We filled them quickly and got the tickets for the 12 45 PM slot. If not for this guy, we would have lost another few hours. Lower deck extreme rear, window seats it was, lucky indeed!

      There are many operators for the ferry and one can choose any of them as per convenience and availability.

      The weather is pleasant here with a comforting silence. The ferry passes through various turns where you can see birds atop of the tree trunks in the middle of the lake, landscapes with animal grazing and a lot of forest.

      Some people may find this unfulfilling as they go with a mindset of spotting at least a couple of wildlife but for us, Bison were the only 4-legged animal to be seen through the ferry ride but it was nice to be engulfed by the reserve and the water body.

Tip: You may want to keep your bladder empty before you board the ride as it takes a good 2 hours of your time and may go up to 3 hours including waiting period.

      Made ground at around 230pm or so. Wondered around for a while before catching the bus back to the check-post.

      As we neared the parking, the anxiety of seeing Joycy crept in and finally as I spotted her in the parking lot with the luggage secured, I took a sigh of relief! 😘

      All thanks to the generous guard at the ticket counter, we were on schedule. Kicked off for Vagamon, my abode for the next 2 days in Kerala. As much as I want to pour out the experience of the journey, one can only see and feel the spectacular views and the pleasure of the swirling roads to reach there.

      Without any rush, enjoying the road, we reached Zostel Vagamon around 5 PM. It’s a 50km ride from Periyar Tiger Reserve, also which makes it a better end destination after an exhausting day.

      Situated on a Cliffside (Probably one of the best part about the location), you will take some time to come out of an awe for the place and the ambiance!

      The temperature here drops faster and gets chilled even before sunset. We chose to spend the rest of the day relaxing there. Chairs facing towards the mountains, sunk into our hoodies, letting the time pass by, feeling the essence of the place.

Kerala Day 7 – Vagamon

      The next morning was like waking up to witness the nature painting the sky in pinkish hues with a large orange ball rising up in between the mountains only making you weak in your knees. Almost casting a spell on you to make you a prisoner to the place! To top it up, in an unforgettable jiffy, you will hear hundreds of birds tuning in and chirping around

      We skipped breakfast (Self-made) and went for a local restaurant serving egg masala and parotha (the only viable option we found in the name of breakfast so early).

      A 10 mins ride from Zostel, are The Vagamon Meadows. Like Matcha ice-cream scoops dropped on the earth with vast picturesque grasslands. The place is quiet and uninhabited early morning and you can enjoy the peace and get clicks without humans photo-bombing, but it may get crowded usually by 10 AM.

      You have to pay an entry fee of Rs. 10 here and a parking space is made available. We spent about half an hour and left to explore The Vagamon Pine forests.

      Located at a distance of 2 km from here, finding a parking is a task here. It’s a 5-10 min walk through a small lane with shops on both sides to the entry point.

      There is an entry fee of 10rs. Got it quickly and rushed in before it gets more crowded. The deeper you go, the sun starts to play hide and seek among the tall pine trees.

      A path is created to walk inside which will feel like a never ending trails. You may spend as much time as you want to.

      The next destination for the day was a hidden gem far into the plantations, Marmala Waterfalls, located a few kms away from Erattupetta, in Kottayam district of Kerala. A sharp, unnoticeable turn, easy to miss, leads to this place through small villages steep undulated path.

      After about 20 mins through the zig-zag path between a few hills and there it was. I took the bike beyond parking on an off-road trail and parked midway. Beyond that, it’s just big rocks for a 100 meter distance and the trail opens out in a cold water waterfall.

      It’s like an oasis covered by huge trees. Chilled water running between huge rocks, originating from somewhere on the top you cannot get a view of.

      It is nothing more but the trickling of the stream, couple of families and friends. You can just remove your footwear and walk around to feel the coldness of the rocks and enjoy some time off for yourself.

      After about an hour, we left for Zostel with a detour to the nearby town downhill to fill up petrol. It was almost dusk by the time we ended the ride. With the cold settling in, the eve was spent on the porch and common place reading books with a downhill view.

      We had dinner and turned in early bed, for our next destination was the most awaited – Munnar

Kerala Day 8 – Munnar Day 1

      A chilly morning, Racked up my chariot and spent time wandering around the place. Left at around 830-9 am with a thrill to meet the rains of Munnar and in a hope to spot Elephants. Munnar is about 110 kms for here. We took the Kattappana route via Idukki.

      First stop, Idukki Dam. We reached one end of the dam only to find out that it’s closed. Well, I did not research enough on this place, but asking the locals, found that the boating point was nearby. Decided to have a look, still in dilemma whether to boat or not, we set off towards it.

      Following Google maps, we reached the ticket counter on the roadside with an off-road trail that leads to the boating point. We did not buy the tickets yet (mistake) and went ahead. After a mere 5 mins of ride, the road opened into a wide spread water land with one of the highest Arch Dam of Asia for the view.

      The lake view instigated an instant regret of not getting the tickets for the boat ride. After a lot of nudging by my fellow rider and behaving like a total jerk, I rode back up, bought the tickets and caught the ferry right away.

      A small Shikhara type boat, that sails in the open waters of the artificial lake created by the three damns, with a magnificent view of the Double curvature Arch Dam on the Periyar river, even though, the place has its own conjuring beauty.

      After having an absolutely satisfying and overwhelmed ride, we set off for our next abode in Kerala, Munnar.

      Through trials, off roads, Ghats and one of the best rides till date reached the Airbnb booked homestay. Located on a cliff side, the place is surrounded with tall trees, row houses and small buildings.

      Quickly unloaded , met the host, chatted about the arrangements of the place and kicked off quickly as the day had just begun and an unknown adventurous off-road trail was up ahead.

      My first stop was Attukad Waterfalls. You can either trek or drive to the place. It’s a little off-road but good enough for vehicles. You may get some slippery patches at places due to rains as well. There is hardly any parking space available. You have to be quick to park before it gets occupied.

      The water flows through huge rocks and passes beneath you , down into further rocks. The bridge is fenced but the view is amazing. 15/20 mins and we scooted off.

      Following Google maps to Pothamedu view point on the bison valley road, the path led to a tea estate. Few minutes from Attukad waterfalls, its a hillside slope with step farming. A very very narrow path ran through the tea estates invisible to the eye.

      Hesitant and unsure, turned back and followed the main road to a small group of houses. Inquiring the way up top, it was through the estate itself !

      A couple of times we thought that we had lost the way, but trusting my gut, we kept following the trail. Lost on the slopes and huge rocks, the bike was bumping often and was difficult to stay balanced. For a while we were just riding lost on the slopes and huge rocks, the bike was bumping often and it was difficult to stay balanced.

      A few meters ascending the hill, dashed onto a big rock losing the saddle, on the brink of tumbling down, skid backwards. Moments away from a disaster, held firm, regained control and paused. Yelled, gathered my confidence back. Shifted the gear down and revved up with much more confidence in Joycy.

      Met a tourist couple who had lost their way to the resorts uphill, trekking, guided them with just the direction.

      Unaware of the path, we had to keep moving hoping we land to where we left for, we kept racing upwards without having any clue where and when we might end up. Was only now worried about any damage to the bike belly.

      It was drizzling, the soil was a little lose. The only grip were the uneven rocks. Crossed the two lost tourist again up the hill somewhere. Followed the google map ,that showed swirling path in nowhere, but leading upwards.

      Through no trails, rocks and no sight where a path leads and pure gut intuition, we got closer to a well laid hard soil path that led out to a concrete one, and there it was, at last, we had reached the top!!

      It was around 2 45 PM. The only view from up there was dark clouds and a green carpet on the hills. The path you follow cannot be backtracked from here, we felt as if we just came out of nowhere and everywhere.

      Enjoyed the view for a while, got our adrenaline in check, cursed the 4 wheeler people who reached there from God knows which road and then set to check on Joycy, for the next stop was Anamudi view point. Joycy was healthy as ever, never disappointing, ya’ll!.

      I had separated the site seeing in Munnar based on two routes. The one that goes towards Anamudi, and the other one towards Top Station. You can cover all of the places along these routes, if you plan better. Well, follow my schedule as it’s fairly relaxing with few tips to make it better.

      The ride towards Anamudi View point crosses many places that you can stop by. With Blossom Park (skipped), Neelakurinji View point – Purplish blue flowers of Neelakurinji that blossoms only once in 12 years in Kerala. (missed this by 1 year), Tea Museum, KDHP estate and many other tea factories.

      We headed straight towards the view point. Traffic is in abundance here. If you travel by a car, consider a day or 2 extra to explore Munnar as traveling will be slow due to tourists flooding the place in peak season.

      Dodging through the traffic, we passed Eravikulam National Park. Book the tickets in advance and plan for this. I did not intend to visit this on priority and skipped it for now. As you cruise ahead, the rains shower 24×7. With the path all fogged up, the further you venture in the Kannan Devan Hills, the merrier. Reaching up, not to my surprise, the view was blocked by the fog.

      Waited for a while, and then scooted ahead. At a sharp turn, near 8th Mile Munnar (Valparia – Gundumalia Trail), spotted a chai shop. With hunger taking over my mind, parked aside and voila! There was Anda- Bread (Egg -Bread) toast. Cooked fresh, it was a delight in the shivering cold and drizzle. A hot tea and 2-3 plates of the toast was galloped in. Such a relief!!

      As you go further, you will reach Udumalpet. Turned back from here, for there were other places to explore in Munnar for the day. Riding downhill, stopped by many places to soak in the fresh view and lush green tea estates and headed straight to the tea museum.

      Just felt short of the last tour at the tea museum, enjoyed the surrounding area. Decided to call it a day as it was too much to grasp of this place in a day.

      Packed dinner and started to my abode for 2 days, Summer Dew home-stay. A pleasant dwelling to spend your time a little away from the hustling town-center of Munnar.

Kerala Day 9 – Munnar Day 2

      The next day was my most awaited one, Top station, with many other places along the way that will leave you in awe. Started at 9am with a nice breakfast at the place(One of the best experiences of a vacation I must say), off to my first stop, KDHP tea museum.

      We had a nice tour at 10am and a short movie to get to know the place. Do not miss this if you intend to know the place you are visiting, for it tells you the history of Munnar and the tea estates here

      The tea seller here – KDHP, has an online store that delivers across India. Skipped the purchases and set off to Mattupetty Dam. Guess to my wonder, the traffic to this place is worst than that of Mumbai, Bangalore. Half Hour to cross a mere 200 meters, skipped the key point at the dam where people flock in.+

      Further 100-300 meters ahead is a quite calm place to enjoy the view of the place away from the overcrowded Damn view point. With some shades under the trees, we spent around 30 mins admiring the calm water, Indescribable.

      It was around 12pm, with the sun glaring right above, the weather was pleasant with a mix of cold and the Sun. Further ahead, you will reach the echo point. An entry fee of 10 Rs. ,it’s worth your time. A difficult place to find a parking at, but do manage it somehow.

      A lake surrounded by hills, calm water with a perfect reflection of the world above- the trees, blue sky and the reflection of yourself as clear as a mirror. A few coracle which you can rent for a ride (without any shade though).

      Next is the PulluMedu Elephant view point. Known for elephant crossing, it provides with the view of the vast landscape of the area. You can spot small natural water patches, grasslands, hills and a few huts and cows grazing around.

      Standing there for 10-15 mins, admiring the creation and the creator, time flew, but it was disheartening to not see even one giant in this place known for it, and who is to be blamed for it? 🙂

      After waiting with and without hopes, we started ahead from here towards the Kundale Lake. Again, a tight spot to find a parking slot. After paying an entry fee of approx. 20 Rs, we were in.

A large lake on the way to top station view point, with peddling boats for hire. Few meters from the lake, you will find Cafes and tea shops. A sunny weather with a cold breeze up top is perfect.

      It was 2 PM, with a hope to get a fog-less view, headed up to top station. Swirling around hills, estates, and valleys that lure you to stop at every corner you peep in.

      With every moment difficult to resist, reached the Top Station at around 230 PM. The usual traffic, scooted off a bit ahead till the barricades only to find the way ahead was covered with dense fog. A bit disappointed, we still waited back for it to clear.

      With egg-bread toast, and an enjoyable coffee, we spent about 15-20 mins chatting around. We got to know that it only gets worst ahead with no view, so finally decided to head back down and get succumbed to the alluring views I just came across riding up-hill.

      Again we stopped by at many places, admiring and cherishing the time there. For this was my last day here, spent ample time just relaxing at places and enjoying the valleys. Last stop was Carmelagiri Elephant Park. You can find it on your way back after Mattupati Dam. Keep an eye out on your right side.

      Although, if you are one of those who cannot see and let alone enjoy the chained animals, do skip it and you’ll probably save a tear (no matter how badly you want to see one, do not choose this place).

      It was by sunset we came down to the town-center, grabbed dinner, took an ATM stop, and a struggle to get other items in south is just real! Finally called it a day with untiring smiles on our faces.

      For two days, it was a captive stay amidst one of best Mountain ranges I have ever been to. From the usual life in Mumbai, to the beaches of Gokarna, and Udupi, into Kerala for the Malabar biryani of Thalassarey, backwaters of Alleppey, the best souvenir of Kerala – Aranmula Kannadi, reserves of Periyar Wild Life Sanctuary, the Secrets of Vagamon and here to the Kannan Devan Hills of Munnar, the geographies change, people change, culture change, but the true essence of the creation of this God’s own country stays within you always to live it again

      It will be fair to say I would have missed few places to visit, if not for the people here in Kerala helped me out. In fact since the day I started booking my Stays for this trip, these guys have welcomed all my last minute changes.

      With a bitter-sweet note (Always happens on the last day of stay at any place) I tuned off my wavering thoughts, and slept in, All set to explore my next destination in the State of Tamil Nadu, The Queen of Hill stations, Kodaikanal.

      In this new state which, mind you, one can recognize instantly due to change in the attire / surroundings and last but not the least, the color of the Lungis differ drastically from those in Kerala.

      Next is the offbeat trek, Devils Kitchen and a lot more stuff that you are bound to miss (some of which I did) , if not planned beforehand in Kodaikanal. With more places to get souvenirs and the journey back home, stay tuned until I pen down the last part of the Trip!

Ride Statistics :

Total km (Alleppey to Munnar ): Appx. 700 kms
State: Kerala
Bikes: Gixxer SF 
Riding hours : 16
Fun : 110%