God’s Own Country – Chapter I

Day 1 – A Freezing Kick-Off

      Mountains for shelter, Peaks to take you high above, forests to go wandering, off roads to keep your adventures alive, villages to part you away from the nasty city rush , serene landscapes to soothe your desires, food right from the clay ovens of the hard working hands in the fields and the lengthiest lake of India as the backyard pool. Had planned my last winter weeks of 2019 amidst this magnificent terrain.

      Around 1400 km from Mumbai, was my first leisure stay.

      Packed, racked and stacked my gears, luggage and myself. Was off from Sion around 0200 hours. Got 2 flags this time, “save water” and “save nature” , mounted on Joycy.

      The usual routine in the dark – Panvel, Lonavala, Dehu exit to Satara and zuup zaaap zuuuup… . The temperature was cold and dropped further as I ventured towards Satara. With my thermal liner, balaclava and winter gloves the chilled wind dashing on my chest and into the jacket sent chills up my spine and my teeth chattering.

     Stopped by a couple of times for a Garam Chai till I reached Satara. The path was lit well by 9 AM, yet I could feel the cold.

      I visited Gokarna during my Coorg bike ride, the journey till Zostel Gokarna was pretty slow and tiring. Hoping for a respite this time, I cruised with excitement and was soon into Karnataka and onward to Belgaum.

      Just before Dharwad, the exit from NH48 is a bit confusing when you are cruising at a 100 kmph, but you’ll get it. Just pay attention to the Google lady than wandering off with the tarmac slipping by in a blink of an eye.

      Post the exit, its all villages and small towns that brings a lot of tiredness with it. Reached Zostel Gokarna by 3pm or so. Checked in, unloaded, freshened up and got out to enjoy the breath-taking view from there.

      Clothed into my lungi and shirt, I took off for Mahabaleshwar temple. A 10 min walk from the Zostel. If you are planning to visit, do make sure you have a lungi/full pants and be ready to take off your angavastram (cloths) covering your torso. Women, on the other hand need to be in Saree / Salwaar kameez. Jeans, t-shirts, shorts are not allowed like any other temple in South India.

      With my past experience, I had only carried along Dhoti (white lungi) and shorts with me on this trip. Light weight, and comfortable isn’t it ?

      The temple is bliss to one’s soul and you can feel its aura instantly. Read the legend of this Temple here, also do visit the Ganesh temple right beside the Mahabaleswar temple.

      A narrow escape from a bull fight on my way to Zostel, hogged on some pasta with light music with the seashore beneath and called it a night.

Day 2 – Biryani Love

      Next day was a long ride, the one that I waited for since I started venturing out on bike trips. Taking one last glance at the sea from here, I took off.

      Passing by the serene roads along the sea coast of Murudeshwar, Udupi and finally Mangalore. The sun burns down like hell here.

      A little into Mangalore city, I noticed a rickshaw follow me for a while, and just as I thought I lost him, I took a pit stop to adjust my GPS. Swiftly beside me, the rickshaw sped and stopped. A guy, in his 30’s, sweating like a pig got down with a broad smile on his face and greeted me. We stood at a Tapri chatting for 10 mins about bike rides and blogs,

      About 60 kms from Mangalore, I was at last in Kasargod. Oh yeah… Kerala at last !!! 🙂

      The roads are narrow with no dividers. The traffic is either very slow or rash. There is no intermediate for the drivers here without exaggeration. (Those who have experienced this, do share your experience)

      There were few road blocks on my way due to the NRC protests that time, though peaceful ones, yet a major traffic jam gobbled a lot of my precious time which I essentially wanted to rest out.

      Dodging the traffic, through villages, and tree tunnels, soon crossed Kannur and was right on-time to have the Kerala Biryani. The famous Thalassarey Biryani in Thalassarey at Paris restaurant with my stay booked in Paris hotel … Too much for the feel? 😀

      Do make a note here, have the Biryani from the old restaurant to taste the local one. The place is just 2 min walk from Paris residency.

      Wrapped in leaves, got it parceled back to hotel. Savoured to my deepest desires of Biryani with the dry coconut chutney and went off dreaming about my next day’s journey.

Day 3 – A Unique Souvenir

      After relishing a nice complimentary buffet breakfast at the hotel, I was off towards Aranmula, a temple town in Kerala. This is the place where the famous snake boat races are organized attracting national and international tourists.

      Well, of course I was not going for the snake boat race during this time of the year. This temple town is known for one of the Kerala’s rich cultural and metallurgical traditions, Aranmula Kannadi. Heard it first time? Check it out here! The one souvenir no one thinks about getting from Kerala! Some benefits of a Bike Ride ha 😉

      The road had the same decorations since I entered Kerala. Through villages and towns, trees sheltering you for miles, every passer-by giving you a broad smile. Kilometers pass by slow but the essence of nature does not let one’s spirit down.

      Thrissur – Chalakudy – Pala and it was almost 2 hours to dusk. After asking directions to a lot of people, I reached the place. This family welcomed me with generosity. They introduced me to all the members with a great cup of coffee by the Granny in the house.

      This family makes Aranmula Kannadi themselves in their Patio. The knowledge of this art is passed on in the family and requires unique skill set to make an artistic Kannadi.

      Bought 4 different sizes of Kannadi and was off after having a Great Time with them. A time very well spent with this sweet family.

      I took off towards the destination for the day, Marari beach. Cruising under the moonlight, I reached Alleppey and zuuuuppp to the Beach Stay, my humble abode for 3 nights. The place was lit up with lamps, a fine dining area out in the Patio, sand all over the place and to add on was the music of the waves crashing on the beach 60 meters from the place.

      If you do go to Alleppey, this would be my recommended place to stay and you would not want to miss it. A private beach and all the peace you can get with many others that one can do.

      After savouring the homemade dinner, I relaxed on the porch, lost midst the peace full of silence. An unknown comfort, far somewhere at an unknown place, among unknown people. Called it a day and soon crashed waiting to explore the next days of my stay here.

Day 4 – An Awestruck Night

      The morning was as calm and serene as it could ever be. Woke up to the song of the waves, went for quick morning walk along the beach. The fishermen were at work pulling in the nets. An hour of wondering at the crabs playing with the waves, came back to have a delicious breakfast.

      A fine cooked omelette with slices of bread, butter and jam to complement with a nice coffee. Next plans were to just lay lazy on the hammock and relax, awaiting my pillion to arrive.

      Most of the afternoon was into lunch, unpacking and settling down after my friend arrived.

We had a nice evening view setup at the beach. 2 reclining wooden chairs, shade and a stool.

      It was dusk and we were on the private beach sitting lazy on the reclining chairs waiting for the sunset.

      The sky was soon engulfed in dark orange colour, pinkish, as the sun was sliding down into the see.

      A mesmerizing sight. With not a soul around to hitch this experience, we were in awe of the moment and the changing colours of the sky.

      A quick bath and into my lungi, we were off to visit the Mararikulam Sree Mahadev Temple. Do note, men need to take off their shirts/torso cloths before entering the temple with full pants/dhoti.

      The entrance of the temple is guarded by a magnificent Statue of Shiva. The enclosure was lighted with hundreds of diyas with bhajan songs going on in an open area besides the temple. There is sand spread inside the enclosure. Only the main temple and a common hall have concrete flooring. Devotees, local residents were in for the evening prayers and we just stayed for admiring the culture.

      After this, we visited the St. Andrew’s Basilica Church, Arthunkal which is the largest shrine of St Sebastian in the world. It has a large enclosure with a capacity of hundreds, and also a huge prayer hall. Fairly empty, we sat talking to the silence and devotion.

      The temple and church visit were like a cherry to the cake after the mesmerizing time we had at the beach. One should not forget to relax to get the best out of a trip. But hold on!! Din abhi baki hai mere dost..

      Bought few essentials and we were back for dinner by 9 pm. A nice Idiyappam with egg curry, chapatis and rice were waiting for us. After tasty home food, it was time for bed. Sitting on the porch, a sudden thought for a late night stroll along the beach struck and Jithu (out host at Marari Edens) was quick to arrange chairs for us.

      Dodging through the sand, we settled on the beach and suddenly thousands of stars twinkling in the sky gripped our souls. Struck in awe, none of us had words to express the joy of the star gazing. Clusters of million tiny stars, twinkling to the tunes of the waves crashing in the beach, a peaceful silence, crickets and two souls, caught by the view sat there at midnight. The best ever night view till now.

      If you are planning to visit, do check for your stay here, or similar one. I bet you won’t ever forget this experience.

      Lost there for hours, we finally came back to our abode by 2am or so. Crashed, smiling and thankful to ourselves for booking this place 😅.

Day 5 – Kerala Backwaters

      Next morning, after a quick breakfast we left to explore the famous backwaters in Alleppey. Jithu had already given us the contact of a guy with boat and the arrangement was done. About 2kms of ride and we reached the boating area.

      We had just missed the noon slot and chose to visit the international Coir museum about 5 kms from here till our boat arrived for us.

      The coir museum is just off the main road. A nominal fee of 20rs per person via card payment only is to be paid. Extra charges for camera and photography. This museum shows the evolution of coir industry in India and the excellent crafts and skills of the workers. Huge statues, artefacts are created using mere coconut skin. No doubt the coconut tree is called as Kalpavriksha.

      Grabbing a few water bottles, we reached the boating area. Our private Shikara boat had just arrived. We booked it for 4 hours for about Rs. 2000. Parked the bike and jumped into the boat. The same Canal we started from was covered with Small mangroves

      Our boat had a couple of seating which was enough to accommodate about 10 people easily, a very comfy mini bed, couple of pillows and a really quiet rider. We kept our belongings and got comfortable on our 4 hour ride which initially we thought was too long but later, we were glad that we decided for nothing less.

      We passed a couple of other boats on our way towards an island, some houseboats parked at a corner, some Shikara rides going back to the starting point, everyone looking pleasantly happy about their temporary abode, some even waving. Did I mention people in Kerala are really friendly and pleasing?

      Our first stop was going to be a small island where we are going to have our lunch; this island arrived in about an hour after we started. We did not leave a single angle from the boat to look out from at our surroundings, everything looked magical and mesmerizing..

      Excited and hungry, we started with the so called unlimited Thali on a banana leaf. You would get fish options on extra charges (based on fish type and size) payable, but we decided to stick to the basics.

      A very interesting moment that I remember very starkly is when I asked for an extra Pappad for the 3rd time and the man serving, mouthed some words in Malayalam which I instantly understood meant “1 Pappad per person” and that’s when I kept my greed low. Some did enjoy the moment to the fullest of me facing a rejection. 😛

      There was a Bald Eagle who sits on a wooden log which is kept as a pet, to pose for a picture. Seeing it in person, it dawned on us that how this Eagle must have been trained and the pain that it might have gone through. We decided to not entertain the idea of taking a picture with a pet bird

      Shortly left the place, fully satiated and our next stop was a place which was famous for a pre-wedding shoot. Our trail soon opened into the Vembanad Lake, the longest lake in India and largest in Kerala. The vast water surrounded by mangroves was magnificent.

      Soon we reached the shoot place. To paint a picture for you, it had an Opera house like structure panted white.

      The best thing we found there and which we didn’t find anywhere else (with the same taste) was a local instant made cold drink. We had one and then one more, and, to my delight, we found raw mangoes (kairi) with masala, which we took for munching on our way back (in abundant quantity).

      The District runs Transport and ferry through the canals for people movement like our BEST Buses. And trust me when i say this, the boats are as rash and honking as the Domestic Buses.

      After spending some time in the shade, we boarded the boat and were off to our starting point. We passed by small boats on the way which looked like toy boats from far but yet so elegant. Finally we arrived at our destination and hopped off the ride happily like kids with an overwhelmed hearts with this first-hand experience that we’ve had which we had only heard / read about all this time.

      That was not the end of the day for us, we were scheduled to go to the light house near Alleppey beach. And we rushed to reach there on time. Well, just in time. Thanks to Joycy!

      Although the heat was pricking, we couldn’t afford to lose out on any pretty places as our stay duration was timed. The top of the light house was crowded a bit, looking out as we blended in too.

      One can see the entire Alapuzha town, the Alleppey beach and the Sun which was yet to duck and show its beautiful colours. We stayed back for a while taking in the scenery, waiting to catch our breath, and then decided to leave as we were yet to pick some things up from the local market.

      As we made our way down, went straight to the Alleppey beach which is nothing less than a crowded Mumbai beach flocked by many people. Grabbed few cold drinks and scooted off.

      Went for local shopping, looking for things that we could take home and then head straight home for some delicious dinner.

      We had asked for chicken and chapati for dinner and oh it was an absolute delicacy. After dinner, we headed towards the beach again for one last time of our stay to grasp the splendid sky as of previous night.

      The host was kind enough to give us a couple of chairs so that we could enjoy there rather comfortably. As we sat there, what I call as a magnificent view with gazillions of stars above us shining brightly, the waves hitting the shore, the cold breeze brushing us, that moment is what I can describe as ecstatic for me, the kind of end of the day you can only wish for, that is one of the moment I lived to the fullest and which I can assure you will be one of my happiest in decades to come.

      To describe the end of that day, I can think of these words, “Night extraordinarily well spent”

      Crashed in, flabbergasted by the time spent, braced for the many days and adventures lined up on this trip. This was just the end of 5th day and I was already gratified. The wilderness of Thekkady, the Meadows and Velvet lawns of Vagamon and most awaited Munnar and Kodaikanal were lined up ahead along with some fails and falls 😉

Check out the next part here !!

      Any of your experiences in Kerala that will blow us off our feet ? Do Share !!

      Do check out other bike trips and a whole lot of stuff here.